aubergines au gratin; squash and red onion upside-down tart; interesting couscous; and, yes, cauliflower cheese. Every main course recipe ends with a few suggestions for compatible vegetables and in Side Orders Ruth develops these ideas into narrative-style recipes, all with an eye to both timings and oven (or hob) space. ‘Toast rack’ potatoes, universal gravy; the best carrots; gently curried peas; chickpea and coriander mash; courgette, pine nut and raisin ragout; and spinach with capers are just a few of the recipes. Big Cakes and Confections is simply packed with irresistible and show-stopping desserts that include tiramisu cake (a non pick-me-up recipe if ever there was one); hazelnut meringue and blackberry cake; rum baba; classic apple crumble; and Italian baked Alaska – not to mention the original sticky toffee pudding recipe. Finally, Fudge-It-Nicely Puds provides recipes for easily assembled desserts that will be as happily received by good cooks who haven’t got much time as bad cooks who don’t want too much of a challenge.

Ruth’s experience as a cook is strongly felt throughout the book – she advises on tempering ambition to suit skills, workloads and available equipment. She removes all the potential stress from cooking for a crowd, and helps make the whole occasion as effortless as possible.

The first chapter, The Weekend Starts Here, explains why Ruth felt the book needed to be written. Getting the best from SftW covers everything from being properly prepared; deciding what’s appropriate to cook; and general culinary explanation – especially what’s vital, and what’s not. An extensive list of online suppliers is also included.

Then follows a terrific assortment of accessible recipes. Starters to go offers narrative-style recipes for simple but stylish assemblies, such as pastrami with celeriac remoulade; feta with water melon and habas fritas; deli-grilled vegetables with hummus; or dressed crab with cress ‘soldiers’. Urban Peasant Food is an unpretentious collection of likeable, easy, ‘let-me-be’ braises and stews. Ossobuco; venison and chestnut stew; well-buggered lamb; chicken, squash and garlic stew; and guineafowl a la montanesa are just a few of the toothsome recipes. Big Roasts gathers up the tried-and-true, such as roast sirloin of beef: hot glazed ham; and roast duck with sage and onion sauce, as well as the more adventurous but still doable Asian-style slow-roast pork belly or merguez and spinach-stuffed saddle of lamb.

Fish eaters and vegetarians will find much happiness in the chapter titled Footless Food with recipes for chorizo-stuffed squid; gurnard, clam and saffron bourride;